On Wednesday, when I wrote my last installment, I
was debating about taking some days off to do some sight seeing.
Wednesday was a particularly grueling day. The weather was very
cold, rainy, and windy - someone told me that the weather forecasters
were calling it the worst June weather in years. Since it was so
nasty outside, I was more than willing to spend the day inside the
BL. For most of the day, I was in the Manuscripts Room and then
moved down to Rare Books to finish up what I had been working on
last week. While I was in Manuscripts, I noticed that the guy across
me left his desk only once in the while day. Besides the basic wonder
of how he could sit there the whole day, seeing him there the whole
time also brought home to exactly why I needed to get of the BL
for a few days. Does one really want to be that sedentary and focused
for three months? Probably not. So, I decided that if the weather
was better the next day, off I would go.
As a side note, while I was sitting in the café sending out my
emails, a woman came by asked me do a survey about the wireless
service at the BL. I agreed to do the survey and gave her quite
an earful about how it should free to all readers and that 4.5 pounds
($9) an hour was a highly unreasonable amount of money to charge
for it. Maybe my feedback will actually have some affect, but at
least I got to vent about it at any rate.
Thursday dawned bright and clear (for London - which means lots
of clouds, but some intermittent sunshine) and I turned by back
on the BL and walked down to Trafalgar Square via Monmouth Street.
I highly recommend this walk to anyone because you get to walk through
Russell Square, past the British Museum, through Convent Garden
and Neal's Yard, and then you end up quite nicely at the National
Portrait Gallery. It's enough to warm you up in the morning but
not too exhausting.
As I was walking through Leicester Square, I walked by the half-price
ticket booth and couldn't resist buying a theatre ticket. I decided
to see Oleanna by Mamet with Julia Stiles and Aaron Eckhart. Mostly,
I just wanted to see a good drama and thought this would be my best
bet. Even though I don't precisely have the funds to be going to
the theatre all that often, I decided that since I was already at
the booth and taking a day off, I should seize the moment and splurge
a little. |
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Leicester Square |

the National Portrait Gallery |
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The National Portrait Gallery may lack the impressive
façade of the neighboring National Gallery, but its collection is
quite fine. As per usual, I spent most of my time in the Victorian
galleries. It also lacks very benches in its galleries as as I found
out during the extended period time I was in the Victorian rooms.
The portrait of Charles Darwin by John Colier was the most striking
to me. The picture depicts Darwin as old man, standing with cloak
on and hat in hand. He looks rather like an old man begging admittance
to a warm fireside than the distinguished scientist and researcher
that he was. It's almost as if the changes his theories wrought
upon the Victorian mindset have aged him and made him tired of this
newly demystified world. Also of interest in the Victorian rooms
were a set of daguerreotypes (a form of early photography) by Lewis
Carroll from his Oxford days.
Having spent almost two hours in the Victorian rooms, I wandered
outside to eat my lunch. I ended up eating at Leicester Square,
which was sunny at this point in the day and great place for people
watching. After lunch, I went back to the Portrait Gallery and walked
through the rest of the galleries. I must admit that I find most
of the eighteenth century and Tudor portraits more than a little
boring, although the Romantics room was very interesting. They had
the portrait of Byron in Corsican dress that always finds its way
into literature anthologies. I also enjoyed the Mary Wollstonecraft
and Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley portraits as well as the Percy Shelley
and Keats pictures.
After being the eighteenth century for far too long in my opinion,
I moved downstairs to the contemporary galleries. These galleries
included portraits of all sorts of British celebrities and artists.
The most bizarrely fascinating was the video portrait David (as
in Beckham). It's in a darkened room of its own. You walk in and
there, projected on the wall, is a video of a long-haired David
Beckham sleeping (or at least pretending to sleep) every few moments
he moves around a bit. The shot shows him from the waist up, without
shirt or anything else on. It's such a function of him as a celebrity
and sex symbol that one almost feels uncomfortable being in the
room. So weird. The special exhibition on at the Gallery was the
BP Portrait Award exhibition. These new portraits were quite good
and demonstrate that British portraiture is very much alive and
well.
The unfortunate thing about how interesting I found the Gallery
is the amount of postcards and such that I bought at the shop. But,
as I tell myself, it's important to copies of these paintings so
that I can refer back to them later - at least, that's what I tell
myself. |
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St. Martins-in-the-Fields |
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| After finishing at the gallery, I crossed the street
to St. Martins-in-the-Fields. The main sanctuary is very beautiful,
and I had the pleasure of listening to a string orchestra rehearsal
for a little while. Then I wandered down to the crypt. In the crypt,
they have a café and the famous brass rubbings. Brass rubbings are
where take a piece of paper over a brass depiction of a knight or
something and rub with a pastel crayon until the design is copied
onto your paper. They no longer allow you do this to the real brasses,
but they have fake ones you can rub. For a small fee, you get all
the materials, a short how-to lesson, and a brass to rub. I decided
to be thoroughly tourist and do one myself - a lion. It was actually
very fun, and I really like how it turned out. After my rubbing, I
went over to the café (which is very neat, down in the crypt and everything)
and had some very yummy cake. |
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the interior of the church |

the cafe in the crypt |

the crypt floor |
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| After eating my cake, I walked back to Bloomsbury, stopping
along the way to get some groceries. I had just enough time to spar
to eat and get to the theatre on time. The show was at the Garrick
Theatre, which is located right across from the Portrait Gallery.
My seat was in the middle of the front row, and I was a little concerned
that I wouldn't be able to see very well. Luckily, the set was very
minimalist and the stage was angle towards the front - so, I could
see very well for most of the show. Oleanna is in three acts,
and it's about the power relationships between a male professor and
his female student. The play begins with the professor in complete
control and the student in complete confusion. The second act switches
this dynamic as the student brings sexual harassment charges against
the professor. Although there has been no overt harassment on the
professor's part, Mamet invites us to look at the underlying assertions
of control and mastery in the professor's most benign comments. However,
in the third act, Mamet shows how the student's accusations have gone
too far and are ruining the professor's life. It was at this point
that I began be more than a little disappointed in the play, but the
second part of the third act was unexpectedly complex. Here, the student
pushes the professor to admit that he has been wrong, and it is here
that he becomes physically violent with her and almost smashes a chair
upon her head. Though this would seem to indicate that the student
has been right all along, the preceding acts suggest a more complex
interplay that undecided who created whom in the relationship. It's
this undecidability that I really like about the play. |
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the Garrick Theatre |
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It was very strange to see actors on the stage that
I had seen before in movies. It was almost as if people who are
in movies, celebrities, are somehow not really real, and seeing
them on the stage (especially from the front row) makes them undeniably
real. Particularly when the actors took their bows at the end of
the play, they were so physically close and that seemed somehow
very unsettling. Both Julia Stiles and Aaron Eckhart were very good,
although I think Julia Stiles was bit better because she seemed
to disappear into the role more. Eckhart was good, but when the
script called for him to be angry, his anger seemed a sort of forced
- he needs to better build up to it, I think. Overall, though, I
enjoyed the show immensely.
I really enjoyed the walk back to Bloomsbury as well. At that time
of the evening, it's almost dark but not quite and there a few people
about but it's not so crowded as usual. I'm beginning to understand
why so many writers mention their walks in London in the evening
as so important and interesting. |
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