| On my first day in Cambridge, I had Jason drop me off
bright and early near the University Library (UL) so that I could
get my reader's card and get to work. The UL is in fact the most uninviting
library, ever. You'd think it would be some lovely old building, but
it's not. My former student who studied at Cambridge over the summer
firmly believes that there are students stuck in there who are unable
to find their way out for years. The place looks the Tate Modern,
only less fun and certainly not as cool. Still, I was happy to find
it with no problem, and was even happier to have no problems getting
my reader's card. |
|

the monolith that is the UL |
| |
I went straight up the Manuscripts reading room.
Well, not really straight up because you can't go anywhere in straight
line in that library. Anyway, I found the room and handed my list
to the librarian. That's when all the craziness started. She informed
me that none of the items I wanted to look at were actually housed
at the UL. Instead, they're located in the individual college libraries.
I had assumed that while the materials were listed by college, they
were all housed in central location for safe-keeping. This was most
definitely not the case. I admit that I should have found this out
earlier on my own, but, after all, the person I had emailed at the
library about ordering my items in advance had never replied to
my many emails. I could already imagine how tired and annoyed going
round to all the individual college libraries was going to make
me. But, there was nothing else to do, but do the footwork and hopefully
get some work done.
The librarian had given me some sketchy directions to the three
colleges (Kings, Trinity, and St. Johns) that I needed go to, but
they were pretty much useless because of the way the college buildings
are organized. Each of the colleges consists of one or more quadrangles
of buildings with a central courtyard of grass in the middle. The
only way to enter a college is through a gate into the courtyard,
and, even if one dares to enter, there are no building signs to
let you know where particular parts of the college (like the library)
are housed. Visitors are only permitted to enter the college through
the main gate, where the porter's lodge is located. The porter's
take the entry fee (yes, you have to pay just to go in and walk
around). However, as I was fortunate enough to discover, a library
card and a backpack will pretty much get you in to every college
whenever and wherever you want without paying.
I quickly concluded that the best course of action was to find
the main gate and ask where the library was. This turned out to
be a very smart thing, as there was simply no way I could have found
any of the libraries on my own. I also decided pictures along the
way, just in case they wouldn't let me back in again (which turned
out not be an issue, after all). The first library I went to was
at Trinity College, one of the most beautiful colleges on campus.
I walked in, and asked where I should go to find my materials. I
was quickly told that I might not be able to see them at all, and
would most definitely not be able to without an appointment. I'm
sure I looked more than a little anxious at this point, and the
other librarian who came up as I was being told that information
took my list and said he'd check to see if the items were available.
The big problem here is that Trinity's Wren (as Christopher Wren,
architect of many of London most beautiful churches) Library was
being refurbished with new wiring over the summer, so some parts
of the collection simply weren't available and the space they had
made in another part of the library for readers was very limited.
Luckily, I was able to make an appointment for Wednesday and was
very happy that I had allowed myself several days to do both research
and sightseeing on this trip. |
|

the first quad of Trinity in rather gloomy weather |

the Wren Library in sunny weather -- I bet it sure
is nice in there |
| |
| Next, I went to St. Johns, where I now knew to ask for
an appointment. It took me more than a few minutes to figure out how
to get in the damn place because the door has no handles. It's a revolving
door that you simply push to open, but it does seem very strange to
someone who hasn't seen anyone open it before. However, as it turns
out, the item that I had wanted to look at was housed in a different
place in the college. After couple of emails with that curator, I
realized that the Broughton mentioned in the item listing didn't have
anything to do with Rhoda Broughton I was studying. After St. Johns,
I went over to Kings, the largest of the colleges. I was in luck at
Kings and was able to look at the few items on my list that was housed
there. Unfortunately, I needed to be admitted as a reader to that
college, and I now needed to get back the letter of recommendation
I had give the folks at the UL. So, I hoofed it back over to the UL
and got my letter. |
|

the first courtyard of St. Johns |

St. Johns library, an old building with odd new
front |
| |
By the time I got my letter, I needed to eat some
lunch and waste time until the library would reopen after lunch,
so I went to this café called Tatties (as in jacket potatoes). I
got my sandwich and went down to the nearly empty basement to eat
in quiet and do a little work on the travelogue. The food was good,
and I felt much better with full stomach and something to cool to
drink. As I was working on my computer, the Italian guy from behind
the counter came down to tidy up the tables and asked me if I was
a student at Cambridge. I explained that I was visitor doing research
for my dissertation. At this point the fifty-year old guy asked
me if he could show me around Cambridge. The man was trying to pick
me up - how dumb did I look. I quickly assured him that I was staying
with a cousin who was going to show me around. This was evidently
enough for him, and he left me alone for the rest of time I was
there. I was more than a little surprised at the whole thing and
found a little funny and unsettling. Needless to say, I didn't go
back to Tatties.
After lunch, I went back to Kings College library and presented
my letter. I was able to look at the manuscript letters and finished
with them in very little time. I spent the few hours I had left
before Jason was picking me up to walk around the colleges I had
just sped through on my way to their libraries and take more some
pictures. |
| |

first courtyard of Kings College |

the gatehouse of Kings College |

the Kings College Library entrance (have to know
what you're looking for) |

the Kings College manuscript reading room (through
the door) -- I took this picture very quickly as I was leaving;-) |
| |
| |
|
|