| We had planned to do the
following on time in the northeast: go to Durham Cathedral on Saturday,
then to Edinburgh on Sunday, the Marks & Spencer somewhere in
the middle, and go to London with a stopover in York on Monday.
Our plans were foiled by two very English things: miners and weather.
First the miners: on the day we had planned to go to Durham, the
city was hosting the annual Miners’ Gala (which meant the
city would be positively mobbed). Second the weather: on Saturday,
the weather was very rainy and cold (not a good day to be out and
about). So, we decided to drop our plans to go to Scotland, go the
outlets on Saturday and to Durham on Sunday.
Saturday, we had a lovely breakfast at the hotel and took a morning
constitutional on the beach despite the rain because the English
do everything despite the rain. Even though it was really cloudy
and kinda rainy, there’s something very nice about walking
along the sea, all bundled up one’s hat and coat. We enjoyed
walking along the beach and seeing the dogs playing on sand and
with each other (they have a special doggy-friendly beach area).
Every time we saw a cute dog, we all missed our own dogs a home
and felt obliged to tell funny stories about them. (Karen, give
poor Henry a hug for me). |
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Karen and Nicki by the stormy sea
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dogs playing on the beach
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Then we got in the car, met the rest
of the family at Karen’s dad’s place, and went to the
outlet stores. I must say, this was a rather disappointing outlet
trip. The M&S outlet left a lot to be desired and didn’t
really have any of their really cute stuff. Of course, the exchange
rate might have just a bit to do with what I think about the prices,
but still the selection was very underwhelming. We did enjoy the
Thornton’s Chocolate outlet as one should. The English do
know their chocolate, that’s for sure. After all the shopping,
we had a nice dinner with Dominic, Karen’s son, at the hotel.
After dinner, we again went round to the pub. This time we went
to a much better sort of pub called the Rosedene. The place we had
been the night before had a bit of a college icky bar feeling to
it, but the Rosedene is a proper pub and was very fun. The place
was very crowded and was full of people who had come down to their
local for a pint or two. I had a great time talking with various
members and friends of Karen’s family. I really like the people
in London and everything, but the people in Sunderland are definitely
worthy of being called “folks,” if you know what I mean.
The only thing I didn't like about hanging out at the pub is the
amount of secondhand smoke I inhaled. With all the recent laws passed
in Florida prohibiting smoking in bars and restaurants, it’s
weird to see anyone smoke in a public place, let alone everyone
smoking. I inhaled so much of it that my voice dropped several octaves,
and I got, what I like to call, my bedroom voice (sounds a lot like
late night love-songs radio dj’s voice). We stayed at the
pub until quite late, especially for Nicki and Karen, and went very
happily back to our room by the sea.
On Sunday, our last day in Sunderland, we went to Durham Cathedral.
The Cathedral itself is very lovely and has absolutely beautiful stained
glass windows. It’s also where St. Cuthbert is buried, and its
inner courtyard was, I believe, used in the Harry Potter movies. The
best thing about the Cathedral was service that was going on when
we arrived. They were having the Matins of the Courts that day. This
service is a special church service for all the local judges and other
legal sorts of government officials connected with County Durham in
some way. decided to take easy and walk by the sea and do a little
local shopping. We missed most of the service but got to see everyone
process out in their regalia of robes and wigs, complete with special
staffs and maces. There’s a certain sort of peace that such
places naturally acquire that’s very interesting to me. It’s
as if, having weathered so many ages of history and absorbed the alternately
troubled and jubilant prayers of its parishioners the place itself
becomes simultaneously flexible and impassive. It has a sort of hush
that is at once commanding and comforting. After walking around the
Cathedral for a while, we walked through the town of Durham’s
cobblestone streets and eat lunch at delightful little café
that had good cake (not as good as Karen’s stepmother’s,
of course). As the weather finally decided to get serious about raining,
we soon headed back to Sunderland. |
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the courtyard at Durham Cathedral
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Nicki and Karen at Durham Castle
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Durham Cathedral
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Before going back to
hotel, we stopped at Karen’s brother’s house. Martin
is an oil tanker captain and regularly sails to the California,
bringing all that super expensive gas to Californians. He’s
has a great sense of humor and his wife went to all sorts of trouble
for us when we arrived, getting us tea and chocolates. Martin’s
wife has two grown daughters from her previous marriage who basically
grew up with Martin as their father. The eldest of the girls, *,
has a little baby boy, Ellis. We had met all of them the night before
at the Rosedene, and, when we arrived at the house, everyone was
visiting for Sunday dinner. The little baby, Ellis, was fascinated
with my voice. Every time I talked, he turned and looked at me,
all sorts of wide-eyed. I think it was my America accent, especially
that Southern drawl that comes out when I’m trying to be sociable,
that was doing it. The little guy had probably never heard a voice
that sounded like that before. I’ve decided that he’s
my British boyfriend;-) The poor kid will probably be oddly attracted
to American girls from the South once he grows up and won’t
know why.
After visiting at Martin’s for much longer
than we had intended, largely due a conversation about American
politics that was quite a bit of fun, we went for an Indian, as
the Brits say. We went to this Indian restaurant that had been recommended
to us by Karen’s family. It was pretty much empty, it being
a Sunday night, and the food was absolutely divine. I don’t
remember what I had, but I do remember that it was just the level
of spice to clear out my sinuses and was perfectly wonderful. Funny
thing about the end of dinner though – Karen wanted to pay
for it, but Nicki didn’t want to let her. I tried signal Karen
to just agree with Nicki because they were likely to bring the check
as Nicki was going to the toilet, but she didn’t understand
what I meant until Nicki had also figured it out. You have to be
crafty to pay for Nicki, you know. |
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