This week is very exciting for me not
only because I will soon be traveling around with my sister and
co., but also because a student of mine from my Victorian literature
survey class last term is going to be town for a few days. My former
student, Nodya, is doing UF's study abroad program at Cambridge
for the summer and is staying London before she goes there. She
called me Thursday night to let me know that she made here okay
and everything. Funny thing about her hotel in Bayswater though
- she paid for a room with bathroom en suite (i.e. attached) and
what she got was a private bathroom and shower on two different
floors. So, she had a total of three rooms that were on different
floors. Not exactly what I would call a "suite." We decided to meet
at the BL at two in the afternoon so she could do St. Paul's and
Westminster early in the morning before the crowds and could do
some work.
So, around two I packed up my materials in the manuscript room
and ignored the feelings of guilt that the always surly staff person's
frown gave me as I asked for my books to be held on reserve for
the next day, and went down to meet Nodya in the lobby. I walked
through the lobby, didn't see her, and went do to the lockers to
put my stuff away and get a snack. Then I went back to the lobby
and waited for a half an hour. Finally, I got started to get worried
about the poor girl, and went to get bag from my locker. On my way
there, I thought to check the upper lobby and there was Nodya waiting
for me. Okay, maybe I should have been a bit more specific about
what I meant by lobby. Anyway, we wandered through the BL's exhibits
(the second time for me). It was much more enjoyable with someone
interested in literature.
Next, we decided to go over to the British Museum. I hadn't actually
been yet even though it's only a ten minute walk from where I'm
staying. When you first enter the museum you go into the Great Court
which was recently enclosed and is very lovely. At the center of
the Court is the Reading Room or what used to be the British Library.
Before the St. Pancras building that I know and love was built,
this is where the BL was located. The reading room itself is a rotunda
with a lovely ceiling. The reading desks stretch outward from the
reference desk located in the center. This room gives one much more
the feeling of the panopticon than the current BL because the reference
desk is elevated and seems to look out over the whole of the reading
room. This room is where Marx wrote Capital and many other famous
literary people wrote and studied. I think I could live here.
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the Great Russell Street entrance to the British Museum |

the Reading Room |
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the Great Court |
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At this point, you may be wondering why there are no pictures of me or Nodya at the British Museum. This is because I'm an idiot and accidentally erased the pictures from our Friday adventures from digital camera before I transferred them onto the computer. I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing when I went to delete one picture and accidentally selected "delete all" instead of "delete current." Doh! Nodya and I agreed to go back to the BM when she comes back through to retake some of the ones we were really excited about. I did go back today and take some shots that I really wanted to make sure I had. I promise not to ever again delete a picture from the camera until I verify that they are all already saved on my computer. Very much a typical Lisa moment.
The museum is nothing if not immense. There's room upon room upon
room of stuff. Most of it, taken by the British from the countries
they colonized in the nineteenth-century. Nodya and I's most common
response to everything was "How did they get it here?" Somehow the
18th and 19th Century English people managed to transport everything
from very impressive Parthenon (Elgin) Marbles to Egyptian statues
as tall as house all the way to England with the technology they
then had. For me, the museum seemed a lot like a Victorian Epcot:
you don't have to go to ____ because we took the really important
artifacts from there and brought them to nice and clear British
Museum. More than anything, I liked the reliefs like the Parthenon
Marbles because they tell a story - it's like a book on a wall.
Although I have to admit that both of us were very freaked out by
the violence of the Assyrian hunt reliefs. We also went the British
nineteenth-century rooms for obvious reasons, and, while they are
quite nice, I really prefer the V&A's collection (see below). |
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Aphrodite |

a Dionysian Procession |

the Assyrian Hunt |

one of the two human-headed winged bulls |

the Parthenon (Elgin) Marbles |

the Parthenon (Elgin) Marbles |
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| Having seen enough of the BM for one
day, we went off and had a lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant
around the corner. It was so nice to have someone to have dinner
with. I don't think we stopped talking the whole time - both of
us happy to be someone that we already knew. It is very much a compliment
to Nodya that at no point did I feel like I was hanging out with
a student. She graduates after her summer program and was definitely
one of my best students.
After dinner, we decided that the weather has going to hold out
and went over to the East End for a Jack the Ripper walking tour
with the same company that I did the Inns of Court with. This tour
is much more popular, and they even had two guides so that they
could split the group in two. The tour was interesting, and our
guide was appropriately dramatic. Mostly though, I liked seeing
the East End a bit. Nodya and I both already knew most of the story
of the "Autumn Terror," so we hung out at the back and enjoyed the
walk. We parted ways on the tube, and promised to meet outside the
South Kensington tube station the next day at ten to go to the Victoria
and Albert Museum (V&A). |
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Christ Church Spitalfields |

Aldgate (old gate) also called the Prostitutes Church in the 19th
Century |
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section of the Old Roman Wall |

soup kitchen for the Jewish poor |
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Ten Bells Pub |

view of the Tower of London from the Tower Hill tube station |
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| The next day we had no problem finding each other and
walked over the V&A from the tube station via the pedestrian subway
which is pretty fun. The V&A absolutely stunning! It may be my favorite
museum after the incomparable National Gallery. When you walk in the
Chihuly Chandelier is so beautiful. I think the effect of the chandelier
with the medieval wall behind most aptly characterizes the V&A - everything
from modern glass to medieval religious artifacts. Deciding to work
our way down the museum, we climbed to nineteenth-century British
rooms. They are wonderful, and I plan to go back and really "do" them
at a future date. The rooms are organized according to style so you
get a real feel for how the styles of the period changed and related
to one another. Nodya's very interested in the medieval British culture
so we did those rooms as well. I really enjoyed them in spite of myself
(I usually get a bit bored with this period), but the tapestry were
absolutely amazing - Nodya and I kept saying, "So, that's what people
did before they had the internet." Both of these sets of British rooms
were kind of dim in this very welcoming sort of way - the absence
of harsh lighting always being a plus. I understand why the medieval
stuff is protected from light, but I think they just forgot to turn
on the lights in the Victorian rooms. |
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the chandelier and medieval religious wall |

Nodya in front of the V&A |
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We also saw the Raphael Cartoons, which are actual
colored drawings about twelve feet tall and at least thirty-six
feet wall. They, of course, have their own special room. We then
poked around the Renaissance rooms, which had lovely sculpture.
This is the point where I distractedly erased all my pictures, so
you'll notice that from this point on I do have pictures of Nodya
and myself because they were taken after I deleted the rest.
Speaking of sculpture, Dad asked me via email why I haven't been
mentioning much sculpture. Well, truth to tell, the Victorians didn't
do a lot of sculpture, being mainly interested in painting and the
developing art of photography. And, since I'm mainly interested
in the Victorians, I tend not see the most of the sculpture collections
at museums. So, Dad, I recommend you take it up with the Victorians;-)
Although we didn't even see half of the V&A, we soon left because
I needed to get to the BL to put in another half day's work. I hope
Nodya has a great time in Cambridge, and I look forward to her coming
back to "town" later in the summer. I really enjoyed going around
with her because it gave me a chance to wander through the BM and
the V&A and get a sense of their collections so that I know how
much time I'll need when I go back to really study the collections.
I got to the BL around one and did some good work till closing at
five. Interesting side note, the people who work in the manuscripts
room on the weekend are much more fun and friendly than the regular
weekday folks. No surly frowning on Saturdays. Tomorrow, I'm going
to Spitalfields Market and will hopefully be able to retake some of
the East End pictures. I'll probably go by the British Museum as well.
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